Displaying items by tag: Wilson Peak

Backpacking into the wilderness is an activity that is not easily surpassed. There is something about the raw nature of it all, like a tribute to our roots as human beings, which makes it such a powerful experience. Pair that experience with the ascent of two of Colorado's more challenging Centennial peaks, all while being with one of your favorite humans on Earth, and you have yourself a recipe for unforgettable memories. When my friend Silas asked me to go with him to climb Wilson Peak and Mount Wilson again, I knew we would be in for an adventure to remember. Even though I'd already done both Wilsons already, I welcomed the opportunity to help to help him finish off the 14ers, just like he had with me on Pyramid Peak in 2012. Silas and I have done a lot of hiking and climbing together - I counted that this was our 18th summit together since 2011. When I met Silas in 2011, he went by Sarah and had recently had a suicide attempt. Since then, Silas has really turned his life around - he got married, he had a child, and he has made a successful career as a non-profit badass. I'm still getting used to the idea of calling Sarah by Silas, but it is growing on me quickly.

Our hike started with Silas telling me about the recent development of not feeling comfortable in his body as a woman and wanting to transition to a man. At first I was really skeptical just as his wife was; however, when Silas told me after our trip that the decision was official, it washed over me and made me smile. No matter what, I love this person for who they are, man or woman, and really, it just does not matter one bit. Anyways, my guess is that you're here to read about climbing and not Silas, I digress. 

I enjoyed the short drive to Telluride from my new home in Durango. It felt so awesome to be so close to the best climbing and wilderness in the state!

We both eventually agreed on an alternative route into the area since I'd been up there via Navajo Basin and the Rock of Ages Trailhead already and wanted to try something new... plus Bilk Basin offered stunning views of Lizard Head Peak to the south and east and by my calculations offered some pretty amazing photographic opportunities since the Milky Way would be rising behind Lizard Head Peak. So, we settled on Bilk Basin via the Sunshine Mesa trailhead. This trailhead was not terribly hard to find using both Roach's 13er guidebook and other online resouces. Silas met me in Telluride and we drove up to the trailhead together. 

For this particular trip, I opted to bring my Nikon D800, my Nikon 14-24 f/2.8 lens, and my Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 lens. I felt like those two lenses would cover the ranges I'd want to be shooting on this trip, even though they were both quite burly. Nothing really beats the 14-24 for night photography. I also decided to bring my new GoPro 4 with me to shoot some footage using my helmet mount during the ascent of Gladstone. Additionally, I know it sounds crazy, but I'm on my 3rd pair of the La Sportiva S EVO Trango boots - they are so good for mountaineering in Colorado - really there is not a better boot for me and my feet in my experience. I love the higher rubber on the sides because they protect my feet during difficult scrambles and I know I can step anywhere with confidence, plus they are super lightweight. You can pick up a pair from Bentgate, a great local Colorado gear shop.

The hike up into Bilk Basin was pretty outstanding - I really enjoyed this approach and think it is the best of the three that I've done into this area. 

The trail was very full of wildflowers and interesting features like this crazy tall flower.

About 1/2 way up the Basin we encounted a stream crossing, which was not in any of the guidebooks to my knowledge. The location of the crossing was right after some old abandoned mining buildings, which I had read about before and seen on the USGS Topo map.

Instead of crossing the creek where it made sense, I wondered if the trail kept going higher since I had not read about the crossing. We ventured up into the valley further and even found ourselves on the creekbed, but eventually did decide to head across where the log dam was at after the mine.

It was a pretty easy log jam crossing, and it reminded me of the log jam at Snowmass, except not nearly as insane or difficult. I went first as Silas photographed me.

And then Silas followed. It was a bit tricky dropping down onto the logs but in the end it was no problem at all.

The early evening light was quite nice paired with the dark forest and the aquamarine creek. 

Ahhh... Wilderness.

After crossing the creek, the trail was very straightforward, following the creek until eventually going up some switchbacks. The evening light was lovely.

Silas enjoyed the view.

About 2/3 of the way up into the basin, the light began to change dramatically, with clouds hovering over the Mount Sneffels Wilderness Area across the valley from us. The last of the sun illuminated the summits of Campbell, Dallas, Gilpin, and Sneffels. I had to stop to capture it.

Well worth the stop, I think. For this one, I used a Circular Polarizer on my 24-70 lens in order to get greater color and tonal saturation and to reduce haze. Prints of this one are available HERE.

We managed to make it into Bilk Basin at dark and had trouble locating the trail going up to the lake below Wilson Peak (objective/camp possibility #1). We thought the basin would make for a good camping area too but it was super marshy down below and we did not want to get wet. We opted to try to follow where the trail that goes up to the Lizard Head Trail was supposed to be by using Gaia GPS GPS on my phone. Gaia is so amazing! You can purchase it here and help support the site. Since there was no trail to follow, we had to rely on technology. What an amazing application. It shows your location on a USGS map, tracks your progress, and even works in airplane mode. It is the best $20 I've ever spent in my life. We found some campsites just below the Lizard Head Trail and opted to stay there since we were both tired and the lake was a good distance away yet. After setting up my tent, I shot single long exposure of the Milky Way from camp. I kept the shutter open for 241 seconds for this shot using a cable shutter release in order to bring out the foreground. Then I crashed into bed at 11 PM to rest up for our big day of climbing. We set our alarm for 4 AM and declared that our 1st goal would be Gladstone Peak, followed by Wilson Peak.

Silas and I got very little sleep but that is the name of the game when it comes to mountaineering and backpacking. We got out of our tent quickly and started off in the dark at around 4:15 AM. We followed the trail by our campsite south and west for a very short distance and found the Lizard Head trail that comes up from the Cross Mountain trail at Lizard Head Pass and turns west towards Gladstone and Wilson Peak. We followed that trail west but it ended abruptly at the creek after about a quarter mile. According to the map, the trail appeared to cross the creek here and continue up into the basin following switchbacks, but the creek was way too deep and flowing fast for our comfort, so we bushwhacked up the hill, following the creek closely. After about 200 feet of elevation gain, we located the trail again and another creek crossing, which was much more desireable and easy to cross. We crossed here and followed the trail up into the basin in the dark. It was not terribly difficult to stay on the feint trail; however, we did have some trouble from time to time. Luckily, I had Gaia GPS to help me stay on course. After about an hour we found the small lake we had hoped to reach the night before. It was a glorious lake to say the least, nestled at the base of Wilson Peak with views of Lizard Head to the southeast. I set-up my tripod and camera for some blue hour photography (the hour prior to sunrise but before the beloved Golden Hour) and Silas enjoyed the view as well. As I was setting up, Silas was able to photograph some deer that paid us a visit on the ridge behind us.

I was incredibly impressed with this location. The low light prior to sunrise coupled with the huge towering massif of Wilson Peak made for a delightful photographic subject. P.S. on some of my photos in this trip report, you can click on it, which takes you to my photography website, where prints can be purchased. I wanted to disclose that up front so that readers were not expecting to be able to click on it to see a larger version. 

I also combined some shots for a panorama of Wilson Peak (right) showcasing the long ridge over to Gladstone (left of center).

When I finished shooting at the lake, I started packing up my gear when I looked back and saw the clouds changing color. I raced up the hillside back where we came from and set-up for this shot of the sunrise and Lizard Head Peak. What an amazing sight!

Finally, we continued on, having spent about 45 minutes total at the lake. 

I think Silas and I were equally jacked up and elated by the sights from the lake - it was quite tremendous indeed.

Just when I thought I was done using the tripod for the morning, I noticed some alpine sunflowers blooming and the early light of Wilson Peak, well, peaking. I had to stop and get this one. I have always admired the work of Jack Brauer and he has a shot with Wetterhorn Peak and alpine sunflowers that I've always greatly admired, so that was my inspiration for this shot.

As we contined up the basin, we kept our eyes on Gladstone.

The early light from the sunrise was looking good behind us, constantly changing the amazing beauty of Lizard Head Peak. I could not stop looking.

Finally, the sun hit in full force and illuminated all of Gladstone and created some wonderful light for this reflection in the lake. 

Lizard Head Peak kept looking better and better behind us, and I could not help but stop and take photos - it was truly fabulous.

I'm sure Silas was sick of me constantly looking back, but I think we were both pretty stoked to have this basin to ourselves to witness this great sunrise.

Silas kept her gaze above at Gladstone and the nasty, crumbly ridgeline between Wilson Peak and Gladstone. It was intimindating for sure.

More sunrise beauty behind us - this time with the gorgeous Ice Lake Basin peaks including U.S. Grant, Pilot Knob, Golden Horn, and Vermillion showing up to the left of Lizard Head Peak. I was paying close attention to those peaks since my plan was to hit Ice Lake Basin the following weekend. What an amazing thing it is to live this close to such incredible scenery.

Alas, we continued up the long steep slopes of Bilk Basin, heading towards the most southernly weakest point between Gladstone and Wilson Peak.

As we climbed higher into the remote basin, Mount Wilson finally came into view just left of our target on the ridge. We had a lot of snow between us and Gladstone and knew we had some snow travel in our future. Fortunately, we had both brought ice axes and did some mental preparation for some snow travel. I even spent some time refreshing my memory for snow travel by reading a couple pages of Freedom of the Hills before leaving home. Actually, that probably saved my life. More on that later.

Finally, the sun came into view and I took advantage by getting a nice sunstar photo looking back east.

Silas also enjoyed the view of Lizard Head and the Ice Lakes peaks to our east. It was hard not to stare, honestly.

Climbing higher and higher into Bilk Basin and closer to our 1st objective. Silas weighs our route and contemplates life...

The snow travel began in full effect. The snow at this point was quite hard and finding our footing was a challenge. We did not bring crampons, which was fine. We just took our time and slowly ascended carefully.

Just a leisurely stroll up a giant snowfield...

The snow was quite blinding in the early sun, but it was quite warn and there was no wind at all. I had a feeling that this snow would be quite soft later in the day. We contined towards our destination - the notch just above and left of Silas in the photo below.

Without much trouble, we reached the Gladstone Peak - Wilson Peak saddle and enjoyed views of Navajo Basin to the west. I was really happy we chose Bilk Basin - the view on the way up was really quite a bit better than that of both the Navajo Basin and the Rock of Ages routes, in my opinion.

It was time to gear up. We both donned our helmets and mentally prepared for the ridge. I had read a lot of horror stories about this ridge up Gladstone and knew that we needed to remain vigilant throughout the morning to stay safe. I also decided it was a good time to finally use my GoPro that my wife bought me. I attached it to my helmet and we set sail. 

Let's rock! It was good to be doing a hardcore scramble again. I love this type of stuff. Unfortunately, this particular scramble was frought with potential peril. 

The rock on the way up Gladstone was chossy, loose garbage. Every time I looked up to find the next rock to step on, my thought was, "there's that rock, which is held up by that rock, which is held up by that rock, which holds up this rock." It was mentally exhausing to say the least. I tested every step, every hold, and kicked rocks before placing my weight on them. I was also extra careful to watch Silas as he ascended, making sure I could dodge a rock at any time. I'm so glad I did... because as you can see in the GoPro video below, I had a near miss that would have been very harmful, perhaps fatal. This video gives you a taste of the journey up Gladstone. I have about 40 minutes of footage that I condensed into 3-4 minutes. The video is a bit shaky - so be warned! I smoothed it out a bit which caused some strange effects, but I think it a bit more watchable now.

The high risk climbs like this always feel good when you reach the top, but for this one, I had a pretty bad feeling the whole time we were on top because I knew we had to go back down the same way and it was not something I looked forward to. Alas, we enjoyed the summit and our company while some people were yelling in joy from over on Mount Wilson. Wilson Peak loomed in the distance to the north and I was apprehensive to give it a go at this point. I was running really low on water and my body felt a bit tired from the near miss. 

A 360 summit panorama from Gladstone...

One of my favorite features to stare at from up here was Lizard Head Peak and the long shadow it cast below with a sea of amazing mountains behind. Really tough to beat.

Also visible were Dallas Peak, Mount Sneffels (left of center), Teakettle (center), Potosi, Wetterhorn, and Uncompahgre (right of center), all above the town of Telluride. Pretty amazing view from this part of Colorado, for sure.

After enjoying the summit for awhile and posting updates to our loved ones, we decided to head down. For the way down, we stayed high on the ridge the entire way, which proved to be more challenging in some ways but much, much more stable than on the way up, where we decided to dodge left below the ridge (which in retrospect was a mistake). We also decided to see how we both felt once reaching the saddle again and decide on Wilson Peak from there. Since I was basically out of water, it was going to be an interesting decision. The views east were great so I was pretty happy no matter what.

More awesome views looking east on the way down...

Being goofy...

There was a really awesome section on the way down which had a pretty committing move up a sheer face that probably saved us a lot of downclimbing into the nasty section of the ridge. Here is a glimpse of that section which I think was one of the highlights of the whole day.

The way down was tricky to say the least. I had to do some interesting manuevers to get across some sections.

We found ourselves at the top of a gully filled with snow and decided it made sense to fill up my Camelbak with snow and try to get it to melt so that I had water. It actually worked pretty well. We packed the Camelbak very tightly and after awhile it did melt some (about an ounze every 15 minutes. After every sip, I blew hot air back into the tube and the reservior, which helped facilitate the melting process. It was at this point we decided that we would keep going up to Wilson Peak.

To get to Wilson, we had to go around a small un-ranked 13er between Gladstone and the Rock of Ages saddle. Roach recommends dropping into the Navajo Basin side, but we thought that the Bilk Basin side looked more doable on the snow. I don't regret the decision to do that; however, the snow was steep and soft and made for slow travel with our ice axes. At one point, Silas started to slide and had to self-arrest, which worked like a charm.

Crossing snowfields sideways is just awkward and slow. Some sections were totally melted and made for uncomfortable and surprising post holing (which sucked)... and other sections were harder and more dangerous. I really dislike snow travel. 

Silas looked bad-ass though...

We finally made it to the Rock of Ages saddle and committed to going up Wilson Peak. We passed a lot of people on the way, none of which were wearing helmets, which was a little surprising given the looseness and seriousness of this climb. To each their own, I guess.

Near the top of Wilson Peak, Silas got to hang out with a Marmot.

Wilson Peak is probably one of the more challenging and enjoyable 14ers. This was my second time up and I still found it to be quite fun, even after a very long day on Gladstone already under the belt. The rock on Wilson Peak is mostly picked through and the loose stuff mostly kicked or pulled down off the mountain. It still demands respect; however, and the sheer steepness of the final section is a real nail-biter. The consequences of any mistakes would be fatal for sure.

Silas topped out on Wilson Peak just before me and I was able to snap a quick shot on my cell phone of that moment - pretty awesome - two peaks in one day.

I setup the tripod and we got a self-timer shot of us celebrating. 

We spent very little time on top and headed back down. Our plan was to take the Wilson Peak trail down just before the Rock of Ages saddle where it meets up with snow that decends into Bilk Basin and to glisade down from there. The plan, while super smart, was not devoid of risk, as I later found out. We reached the snow field and Silas went first. Silas used his axe and feet to keep the brakes on and made it down about 300 feet without issue. I followed on the same path (mistake #1) and sat down in the snow, readied my axe, and started to go. After mere seconds, my speed increased behind a point where I could slow myself with my axe and I began to worry. I knew that I was out of control and heading straight for Silas. This was bad. I'm not sure why, but I remained calm (maybe I read that in Freedom of the Hills) and did not yell or scream even though I was careening out of control towards Silas. I dug my elbows and feet in - nothing. It hurt like a bitch. Per what I read in Freedom of the Hills for an uncontrolled slide, I flipped over on my chest and planted my axe deep into the snow with the long end going into the snow and my hands firmly holding onto the axe part. It worked! I stopped immediately. Silas said he was going to take video of me but before he knew it, I was right next to him. Yep - that's because I was travelling at like 30 miles an hour down the hillside. Two close calls in one day - not OK. We carefully decended the rest of the snow without incident. I grew tired from the lack of water, and I had also run out of food. Fantastic. Way to prepare! We finally reached running water above the lake at the creek that feeds Bilk Basin and we stopped to refill our water. I had fortunately brought my water filter with me (which I usually don't do) and I began to engorge myself with sweet, sweet water. Too much of it... like a half gallon. Whoops. Now I felt sick from drinking too much water too quickly. Not my best day. When we reached the lake, I stopped to vomit, another first. Nothing really came out but it still sucked just the same. I thought we were done with the shenannagins until we reached the creek crossing from earlier in the morning. Guess what? It was about 3 feet higher from all of the snow melt! Fantastic. We both knew we had to keep going down and look for another way to cross. The below photo shows just how much water was coming down...

Unfortunately, we never did find another place to cross and had to go all the way back down to the start of the basin through Willows and fallen trees. It was a slog. We were both absolutely destroyed, mentally and physically. We had to climb all the way back up about 200-300 feet to our campsite through an area without a trail. Awesome. When we got to the top of the hill to the feint trail leading to our campsite, I vomited again. Excellent. We reached camp and Silas hooked me up with some electrolyte water. That shit works! I was feeling great after about 20 minutes of rest and ready to rock and roll again, excited for photographing sunset. Unbelievable. Sunset looked like it was going to be a total dud. The first "wave" of light after the sun set was pretty dull, some weak yellows and golds in the sky... then out of nowhere I looked back and saw the sky filled with small clouds all turning pink and purple. I ran out to a decent spot out of camp and barely had enough time to snap off this shot of sunset... which faded after only 2-3 minutes. We ate dinner and celebrated our accomplishments.

After dinner, I was totally exhausted. I knew that I really wanted to get some Milky Way photographs over Lizard Head Peak, but was not sure if I could make it long enough awake to pull it off. I slowly hiked up the hill to the south of our camp to find a spot. I was so exhausted after finding my spot to shoot that I set up my camera on my tripod, found a spot to lay down in the grass, and set my alarm on my phone to wake up two hours later so I could not miss the amazing night sky scene. This one did not disappoint - the dark skies of Southwest Colorado are not easily surpassed in quality. The position of the Galactic Core above Lizard Head's impressive massif was just about perfect with the dimly illuminated moon shining just the right amount of light onto Lizard Head Peak. This is a single exposure shot using the Nikon D800, using the 14-24 f/2.8 lens at f/2.8 at 24mm for 15 seconds at ISO 6400 and in-camera noise reduction. 

I also was able to shoot some pretty nice panoramas, sweeping from right to left, getting 13,113 ft. Lizard Head Peak (right), 12,930 ft. Sunshine Mountain (center), and all of the Mount Sneffels area peaks in one photograph, above Telluride. 

Lastly, I went for it all, getting Wilson Peak in the mix in a 360 degree panorama. The clouds were a really awesome compliment to the Milky Way.

I was pleased with my efforts to capture the night sky and head back to camp to get some much needed sleep. We decided to sleep in and then hike out, which meant Silas would have to return another day to get Mount Wilson. The "trail" down Bilk Basin from the Lizard Head trail was non-existent. We had to cross through some really huge fallen trees before we reached the creek again and trail out. Add in yet another memorable experience, why not?

We cruised down the Sunshine Mesa trail in no time, passing some day hikers on the way. We settled on Tellurde Brewing for our final stop to get some brews and to commemorate our unforgettable backpacking adventure before heading home. 

Tellurude Brewing has some fantastic beers! I think my favorite was the Freshwater Double IPA or the Brown on nitro. Yum!

You can view and download my GPS track from Gaia GPS HERE. Hope that it is useful!

Fourth of July weekend always provides a tremendous opportunity for mountaineering, and this year was no different for me. Early in the year (January), I was eagerly planning my summer's climbs and saw this weekend and knew it would be both tremendous and controversial. You see, my wife's birthday is July 3rd. I begged her to allow me to climb on this weekend, knowing that it would probably be the only way I would be able to successfully complete the 14ers this year, which was my goal. My wife was really cool about it and said I could go. With that being said, I knew that the perfect match for this date range would be the Wilsons (Wilson Peak, El Diente and Mount Wilson). I set aside a total of 5 days for the trip and hoped I would not need all 5 days, but knew that weather could necessitate the use of all 5 days. My climbing partner, Regina and I roughly sketched what we thought would work best earlier in the year and when June 30th finally arrived, we were both excited to get out of town and up into the mountains! The plan was to drive to the Navajo Lake trailhead on June 30th and camp there, backpack up to Navajo Lake on July 1, establish camp, climb Wilson Peak and go to bed. After this, on July 2, we would do El Diente via the North Slopes route in the snow and then traverse over to Mount Wilson. This would leave July 3 for completing Gladstone Peak (a centennial 13er) and for the hike out. It even factored in one extra day for weather or for kicking it in Telluride for a bit.

So, with all that being said, Regina and I embarked for the Telluride area, a good 300 miles away. We drove through the Blue Mesa Reservoir area during dusk, and I was able to get one decent photo from the car while Regina was driving. I have always really enjoyed that part of the drive and someday I'll time it just right to get a gorgeous sunset photo there. Until then...

The plan unfolded perfectly and before we knew it we had arrived at the trailhead for Navajo Lake at around midnight. We set-up camp away from the trailhead and set the alarm for 7 AM since we were looking at a good 4.5 miles or so to the lake and an additional 8 miles to Wilson Peak and back to the lake for our itinerary. The alarm went off and we sprang out of the tent and packed up quickly, eager to hit the trail. The weather was absolutely fantastic. This week, I decided to try something I've never done before and pack my tripod with me. While this added some additional weight, it would allow me to get some great photos at Navajo Lake and even try my hand at some more star trails photography.

The Navajo Lake trail was really quite fantastic - it weaves in and out of huge groves of corn lilies (Veratrum Californicum), but I like to refer to them as Indian Toilet Paper since back when I taught Leave No Trace we would always use them for, ahem, wiping.

Pretty quickly, the trail leads you up the long meadows and into view of El Diente, which by the way was one of the most deadly mountains last year.

The whole area was covered in those corn lilies and wildflowers, which slowed me down a bit due to me wanting to take a ton of photos. I think I have a serious photography problem or something... what do you think?

Naturally, a hike in the San Juans and the Lizard Head Wilderness Area are not complete without a sunbathing marmot!

The trail kept winding up towards Navajo Lake and eventually we reached the trail junction for Woods Lake.

The closer we got to the lake, the more vibrant and ubiquitous the wildflowers became and I could not help but take more photos. What can I say, I'm a sucker.

A mere 3 hours later we finally arrived at Navajo Lake. The view of the lake and Gladstone Peak was absolutely stunning.

We were able to establish camp about 300 feet away from the lake up on a small plateau - it was an absolute gem of a campsite. After setting up our tent and getting everything else situated, we packed up our daypacks and headed on up the trail with the objective of Wilson Peak in mind. Our departure time was 12 PM. Normally, I would not attempt to climb a mountain so late in the day, but the weather was superb and I knew the forecast was totally clear, so we opted to give it a shot. Worst case scenario, we could always head back down to the lake if the weather turned on us.

Now, Wilson Peak has never held much status in my mind, purportedly being the easiest of the group's 14ers, so I never did much research on the route. Sure, I read the route description and printed off a few photos and paragraphs, but I felt pretty confident that it would be a fairly easy climb. Boy - I was really pleasantly surprised and wrong about that assumption, as you'll read later on.

The hike up into Navajo Basin was really enjoyable from the lake.

After awhile, the trail finally brought us even with El Diente to our right, the view of the North Slopes route came into view nicely. Mount Wilson sits at the top of the basin, right of Gladstone Peak, and is connected to El Diente by a massive, spiny ridge, as seen in the below pano.

Additionally, the blue hues of Navajo Lake kept me looking back, enjoying the vistas of the valley.

The trail was not terribly steep but it did weave in and out of large snowfields, making it a bit more interesting but nothing too dicey, so far.

Finally, we reached the headwall that leads to the Wilson Peak - Gladstone Peak saddle beneath the Rock of Ages Mine, which required us to head up a giant snowfield. The snow was quite firm and easy to hike through.

I was feeling really good and had gained a bit of distance between Regina and I, so I periodically stopped to let her catch up.

The snow in the North Slopes Couliour for El Diente looked superb and I was a bit excited to see how that would work out on the following day.

At 2:30 PM, we both reached the Rock of Ages mine, which felt quite like something out of the 1800's. An old wooden mine shack still sits on the mountainside along with a small wooden bench, a mining cart and some other odds and ends.

We rested at the mine, ate some food and discussed the next steps. The trail continued on up towards the Rock of Ages saddle to our left, but I knew from reading the route description that the trail winds back across the mountain just above the mine itself, so I figured it would be a good opportunity for some off-route exploring up through some easy class 2 boulders above us to the Wilson Peak - Gladstone Peak saddle.

Personally, this terrain is a playground for me - the rock was somewhat loose but not too crazy, and it was fairly obvious which rocks were stable and where you needed to go. Regina on the other hand, not having grown up climbing off-route like me, felt a little less comfortable on the boulder field and was starting to have some doubts about the rest of the climb. I assured her that she would be fine and that she needed to treat the rocks with respect, expect that they will move, and be nimble about her movements. Eventually we made it up to the saddle without incident and were greeted by the first insane views of the day to our east. A cornicopia of San Juan mountains laid before our eyes and I was excited to finally get views of Lizard Head Peak, Fuller Peak, Vermillion Peak, Golden Horn, Pilot Knob, U.S. Grant Peak and South Lookout Peak, which all rest at the head of Ice Lake Basin - one of the most gorgeous locations in Colorado. Can you identify them all?

Here, let me help you!

Of particular awesomeness was the view of Lizard Head Peak, which will likely forever rest on my unclimbed list!

At this point, Regina and I had to make a decision. The weather was great. Barely any clouds in any direction. But - Wilson Peak was still a long ways off and it was already 3:30 PM. I still felt strong but Regina was fairly demoralized by how far away Wilson Peak looked still. From the saddle Wilson Peak was still a half mile away and a good 600 feet up across insane snowfields and rotten rock. I encouraged Regina to give it a shot with me, so we did. Right off the bat, we were greeted by a pretty intense snow field at the base of a cliff that was quite run-out, meaning, if you fell down, you were going to travel a long way down and probably die. We deployed our ice axes and secured our helmets and crossed, using extreme caution. Soon, a second and then a third snow field of equal danger were presented to us as well as crumbling rock and difficult trail-finding. Regina became really sketched out by the whole thing and decided that it was as far as she would travel and told me to keep going and that she would wait there. I was fine with that idea, so I continued on. I'm not going to lie - I was not mentally prepared for this climb. I thought Wilson Peak would be a walk in the park. Having much of the route obscured by steep and dangerous snow that had softened considerably throughout the day, my mountaineering skills were certainly challenged. The route before the false summit was chossy at best, with huge loose boulders cascading above and below me on a regular basis. Oddly enough, I was calm in this environment. I have an odd knack for loose rock and when my footholds and handholds gave way, I went with it, almost like walking onto an escalator. I chose my route carefully enough so that I could avoid the larger messes, but a few rocks did manage to take huge chunks of flesh out of my finger and hand. No worries though, the bleeding stopped quickly and I didn't even stop to apply a bandage. All in a days work. I was finally able to reach the ridgeline that connects to the false summit, and was able to catch views of a small wildfire that had broken out to the north-west of me.

Of even more interest at the time, Wilson Peak's daunting summit block stood before me like some ancient pyramid. Again I found myself thinking - wow - really? I never expected this much awesomeness from this mountain. I was excited. Was this going to turn into a class 4 scramble? I sure hoped it did! The exposure looked inviting, but the rock was crumby and resembling of tiny pinnacles. I knew that I needed to choose my route carefully. The route description from 14ers.com stated that there was two ways to skin this cat - go left and downclimb to some safer class 3 sections, or continue on the ridge and challenge yourself with some nuts class 4 stuff. I chose the class 4 stuff and it did not disappoint me in the least.

In the interest of weight and balance, I decided to take a huge drink of gatorade and leave my pack on the false summit, bringing along my camera, which was attached to my chest by my new Lowepro Toploader bag. Yes, I realize that I broke one of the key tenets of mountaineering by leaving my pack behind, but I still feel it was the best decision.

After carefully finding my way down and through the class 4 section, I reached the summit at 4:50 PM. I was still feeling great. Naturally, the views were absurd and rediculous - in a good way of course! Sneffles towered to the north-east alongside all of her insanely shaped neighbors. All-in-all I would rate the Wilson Peak views as a 8 or 8.5. Pretty amazing.

Sneffles and her friends:

I was able to set my camera up to take a quick self-timer too - how fun.

I figured with Regina waiting below, I should get off the summit pretty quickly, and so I did, leaving at 5:03 PM. In the distance, I spotted my pack and I thought it was neat to see the nastiness of the downclimb I did earlier as well as my pack for a dose of perspective. I basically went straight down from where my pack was at.

Zoomed out, you can see that the saddle where Regina was waiting for me was a long ways off. I believe she was waiting for me just where the snow was starting to end.

Another view of the climb back up to the false summit from Wilson Peak with my backpack at the top:

The downclimb back to Regina went much faster and I was able to reach her in just 30 minutes from the summit. She had safely crossed back to the saddle and had waited for me there. She also took a shot of me on the Gladstone Peak - Wilson Peak saddle:

We opted to head back down the standard way to the Rock of Ages Saddle and had a long conversation on the way down. I knew that Regina was probably feeling pretty bummed about not getting to the top of Wilson Peak, especially after the absolute disaster that was our Snowmass Mountain attempt the week prior. I was pretty proud of the way Regina handled this situation. We talked about how this type of climbing just was not fun for her and that if she was feeling uncomfortable on the rock that it was not worth getting killed just to check off a box on a list. I knew that Regina had a strong goal to finish the 14ers this year, but I think she has a much richer appreciation for mountaineering and all of its challenges. I think that in time she will grow more and more comfortable on class 3 and class 4 climbs, and will complete the 14ers; however, there's no sense in getting killed because you don't feel comfortable! Kudos to Regina for having a clear mind about this issue. All too many climbers lose sight of this important perspective in their quest for glory.

The Rock of Ages Saddle proved to be a nice location to capture a nice panoramic of the Navajo Basin, with Gladstone Peak (center) at the head and continuing on down the ridge to El Diente.

We took pause back at the Rock of Ages Mine for some good 'ol fashioned mining fun. Regina took a more conservative approach to her mining pose:

But... I was still pumped from doing Wilson Peak, plus I wanted to give my best Miner-49-er impression! I think the result was more of a hybrid between pirate and crazy guy...

Cruising back down the Navajo Basin was quite fun since the snow had softened up just enough for some glissading and boot skiing.

However, the sun was beginning to set, and my photographic funny bone started to shake. I knew that the Golden Hour was approaching and that there would be some amazing opportunities for some killer shots soon.

As we worked our way down the snow fields, I was getting more and more anxious for the photography opportunities. I kept looking down at my altimeter watch to see what time the sun was setting. According to my watch, the sun would set at 8:45 PM. I was really pushing myself to get down to Navajo Lake before then so that I could take advantage of my tripod and the sunset.

Unfortunately, there were just too many awesome things to take pictures of on the way down!

I even found a model marmot to pose for me - how kind of him!

I thought he was pretty funny! He even gave me his best "oh crap" look! Haha.

As the sun set further and further, I kept pushing myself to hike faster and faster. Would I make it?

The photographic opportunities were endless...

I was even able to get a quick HDR from the trail, although the results were not terribly great.

I finally passed Regina and she pretty much knew what I was up to - I needed to get back to that lake! Alas - I did reach the lake right on time at 8:00 exactly, 8 hours after we had left camp. Navajo Lake submitted her glory to me quite beautifully...

And I even did a pretty decent HDR too:

Regina and I convened at camp and decided to cook some Mountain House meals ASAP to refuel. While I gathered some water at the creek, I could not help but notice that the red rocks of El Diente were reflected off of the creek...

Regina and I talked about our plans for the remainder of the weekend. We tossed around a few ideas. Maybe I could climb Mount Wilson and El Diente with another group at the lake? Maybe we would just head out and call it good? We decided on the latter. I did not want Regina sitting around all day while I climbed some more, and since the mountains are not going anywhere, I figured it would be totally cool.

Regina and I threw down on our meals like two starving children. Regina was pretty tired and went to bed, but I knew that my adventure had just begun. With tripod at hand and camera at the ready, I set-up for a night of star trails photography, which is quickly becoming one of my favorite things to do.

Navajo Lake would provide the perfect setting for star trails, and I knew that I would get a few keepers out of my efforts.

As I waited for the perfect amount of star light, I embarked on a slight experiment. I knew that in a lot of star trails photos, the goal is to center the photo on the North Star, since that star does not move across the sky. The result is a center star that does not move with the rest of the stars rotating around it like a carousel. Unfortunately, I totally forgot how to identify where the North Star is in the sky, but knew that it had something to do with the Big Dipper. I realized that the Big Dipper's cup pointed at the North Star, so I centered my camera on that star and tested it out. Sure enough, I had successfully located the North Star.

Finally, the moment was right and I opted to do the one exposure method of shooting star trails, where combining photos is not required, but precision is. I think it went pretty well, although I really wanted to do it for longer, but literally fell asleep on the shores of the lake while the camera took the shot...

I also decided to compile a set of exposures @30 seconds each to see which method produced the best results. I certainly feel torn!

I finally went to bed, knowing that I had captured something magical in the reflection of the lake. In all, I ascended 5,280 ft. and hiked over 15 miles. Click the elevation profile for a larger version if you'd like.

The next day, we packed our packs and headed out, but not without some obligatory shots of more wildflowers and one whacky mushroom!

We departed the valley thinking that our adventure had ended. We left knowing that we had gleaned some positives from the trip and that even though our plans did not pan out the way we intended, that it was still a great time. Little did we know then that our adventure had just begun...

The San Juan Mountains span approximately 6,000 square miles in the southwestern portion of Colorado and contain several sub-ranges, including the Grenadier Range, Needle Mountains, West Needle Mountains, La Garita Mountains and the La Plata Mountains. The San Juans are home to some of the most rugged and breathtaking mountains in the continental United States.